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European Excursion, 2002 We started out well enough. Got into London City mid morning on Friday- It's a great little place- had my luggage, used the cash machine, through customs and everything in less than ten minutes. Bus to Tube Station, Tube to Waterloo-...where I was accosted by the man behind me on the escalator (remember- these things go up about 6 miles.....) a who made (tried to make?)a pass at me- even gave me a hastily written letter "Sorry I was staring but you look so fine. I'm here until the 28th. My e-mail is....." I was extremely glad to be on my way to Bath. And anyway, it was a lie. I'd been flying for the last 12 hours- desperately needed a shower and was toting about 150 kilos of luggage. Makes any girl feel like Miss America. Caught the train. Fine. Had to change along the way.....and ended up standing most of the rest (too many tickets sold, not enough seats) of the way in the aisle with a Welshman off on three weeks holiday whose goal was to drink 12 beers in succession before reaching Cardiff. He was well on his way by the time I got off :~) That was an adventure. What else? Got to the Centre....finally.....found that Kent had sent Flowers to be waiting there for me when I got there. He's so sweet. It had been a long day...and THEN I discoverd that we got to walk (toting said kilos) to Judith's apartment...only about 10 mins away. Great location though- along the side of the the Royal Crescent, in Marlborough buildings. We get there and she tells me that she has to go stay with Her mother in Wales, so please make myself at home. She gave me her flat for a week! The first day we met! WOW! That was something. That week, I went all over. On Saturday, Judith had arranged for me to get to the JAS AGM at Chawton House, riding with "Gavin and Angela Darling" (now that I think of it, they strangely resemble Neville and Dorcas in the Great Muppet Caper) who head up the Bath branch. They were very kind to do this. I'm sure they would have enjoyed their time much more with just themselves as it is a lovely hour and a half drive....I did my best to oblige though....I was SO jetlagged- I fell asleep on the way there AND on the way back. How embarassing!! We also passed Stonehenge on the way, which was a delightful surprise. I hadn't expected to get to see it at all. Once there, I could not attend the morning session as my membership had lapsed, so I went to visit Jane Austen's house, instead. That was fun- it was great to get to see it all on my own before returning with the tour. The gardens were particularly lovely. Got back to the house for lunch, then the open session, which was done on "Questions in Northanger Abbey" by the guy who wrote "Who Betrayed Elizabeth Bennet", and Evensong at St. Nicholas's church which is on the Chawton property. Home again...tired and happy. The next day, Sue picked me up for Church yet again a St. Nicholas!) and in the afternoon David took me to Castle Coombe- a National Trust Village- for lunch. It all looks the way it did in the 1600's - so pretty- all the little gardens and all- Monday was sightseeing/shopping day. I did the Jane Austen Walk about in Bath and then went to Sue's for dinner. After that, we took a tour of her town, Bradford on Avon. They have the oldest standing building in England- a little Saxon church built in the 800s. Tuesday was Museum Day- did #1 Royal Crescent, the Building of Bath, and a bus tour (and shopping) then Sue and her husband and I met some of their friends at the Crossed Guns- a 400 year old pub in Limpley Stoke- it's where the river meets the train tracks meets the canal. Talk about atmosphere! Wednesday I got to work at the Centre. That was fun. Playing in the giftshop, wandering about- they didn't have a nametag for me, so I got to be Rebecca :~) On Thursday, I shopped in the morning and worked in the afternoon. They had a bonnet done up by a local lady for their advertising manniquin...which was awful! It looked like something from Gone with the Wind. So I tore it apart, did it up....and then tore it appart again to redo properly at home. Left that off early Friday Morning- in a much more satisfied frame of mind- and took the train in to London to meet the tour. Good thing I caught the early one! They cancelled the others! Lots of angry passengers :~) FINALLY found the tour group in London....they met at Victoria Coach station, but I couldn't remember the name of the bus company - and they have about 58 bays! Fortunately, I ran into some one from NYC that I'd met before. Phew! It's a good thing, too, since they didn't end up parking the bus. We all had to meet out on the sidewalk and walk up a ways (40 American Women PLUS luggage....and London was about 90* that day) for the bus because his spot had been taken. He ended up parking in the middle of the street and loading us from there. Too bad for him- he got a parking ticket for his efforts :~) Getting to the hotel was fun- I figure it's about the closest thing to summer camp that I will experiance- it was So hot on the bus though. Finally got there- to discover that I was on the top floor....and no lift! Fortunately, this time I could take the luggage in shifts. They sure knew what we'd need! The ladies running the tour had stocked the entire fridge with snack foods- chips, chocolate, cheese, cookies.... Yum! Just what I wanted after a week on my own. Turns out, my roommate was the girl I met in the bus station! Saturday, we went to Steventon. That afternoon we went to Chawton (and I held the bus up because I was shopping in the village. Oops! not a good thing to do to Myretta!) and had a tour there- Tom Carpenter took us in the back and showed us some of Jane's actual letters and things. That was really neat. We also got a talk on the family history. After that, we had a tour of the Great house- cool since they let NO one in the Saturday before and a walk around the grounds, led by the gardiner. After that we had tea in the garden. In the evening, they taught us Mr. Beveridges Maggot- and I was extremely graceful. Ha. Sunday was free in the morning- a chance to sleep in.....and miss breakfast again- I became quite a layabout- and then travel to Winchester for a chance to see inside the cathedral. We (because of a large donation made on behalf of the group) were allowed to take pictures inside, and given a small "service" by Jane's grave which included a wreath laying ceremony (?) but the flowers were gorgeous- and many tears on behalf of the senior members of the tour. After that, we had Evensong THERE- the choir was on tour....from Texas. Small world? And the golden text?? Song of Solomon 4. There were quite a few smothered giggles. After it, we all raced around to college street to catch a glimpse of the house where she died, before heading back to the lodge. Along the way, I discovered that the girl sitting across from me...was my very first customer in all the world! How odd is that? I'm glad she was happy! Monday we went to Lacock- and it POURED! And I forgot my jacket AND umbrella. It really is a sweet little town though- lots of cute shops- another National Trust village- found the main streets from P&P (Meryton) and Emma (Highbury) and the church used in Emma. Then lunch at the Red Lion (Dancing in P&P where Darcy first meets Lizzy) and on to Luckington Court. (Longbourne) Apparently the owner is a practically senile old lady who "Vants to be alone" so we were thrilled to have a chance to wander the grounds- from the drive to the "rather prettyish sort of wildnerness" and see the church used in P&P which is right on the property. It really is lovely- though smaller than it seemed in the movie. And then, just as we were leaving...they let us inside! That was amazing! All the rooms on the first floor - Foyer (Hill!! Hill!!) Dining Room with Famous Collins mantlepiece, Study (an unfortunate choice is before you) and Parlour (with windows FULL West) Even the staircase where Lydia meets Mr. Collins in somewhat....less formal attire :~) That night, someone broke out the Austenopoly game. VERY cleverly put together. If it's ever marketed....Do buy a copy- Guess who won...Fanny! There's an odd chance. Tuesday we had reached Limply Stoke...or rather Lower Limply, which sounds almost.....well...less than lady like :~) And had free day in Bath. I met Joy there, and we spent the day together, since I'd already been all over the city. Shopping, talking, tea...it was nice to have a FRIEND with me again :~) Two weeks on my own is enough for me. That night we did the torchlight tour of the Roman Baths- very interesting- and had dinner in the Pumproom, which was delightful. I didn't try the water- but it smelled like sulfer...and really was warm. Yuck! Wednesday was off to Lyme- it was beautiful! And a gorgeous day! Of course we walked the cobb- I did the stairs a few times- just because I could :~) And found the Harville's house- both the movie one and the one in the book- a wonderful selection of bookstores-- and mostly just enjoyed the seaside- I think the water must have been freezing though- not that it deterred the kids from going in! After that, we had tea in the Georgian Tea Rooms (my first experiance with "Lemon Squash") and then back to prepare for our Grand Finale- a private tour of the Assembly Rooms and Costume Museum, followed by dinner with Anderw Davies (who wrote the script for P&P, Emma and Northanger Abbey). The Costume museum does have some lovely things- but they could take some hints from the V&A regarding notes and displays. They were also running a display of Elizabeth's gowns so that was interesting too. :~) The assembly rooms were great- as long as you didn't listen to your guide who either did not know history or Austen....or both :~) Thurs, was time for Goodbyes- OH! I forgot! On Monday night, we all gathered in Jen and My room to watch the Bollywood (Indian) version of S&S! It was hysterical! It was a musical version, updated to 21st Century Delhi, Elinor was a programmer and Edward was a film director! But everything was spot on! It started out with this war scene like something from Rambo- where a guy gets his leg blown off by a land mine- we thought it was the wrong movie- but it was really Col. Brandon- no flannel waistcoats, but certainly an old solider. It was in Tamil, with subtitles. Anyway, Thurs. I went in to Bath to catch the train with Joy back to London- and stopped at an internet cafe on the way...typed for about an hour-- checked the clock- oops- have about a half an hour before I need to meet joy- better head on over- just across the street---- Hey? Why are they annoucing the 12:01 when it's only 11:15?? What do you know? The clock on the PC was 45 min off! Ack! Talk about throwing your things on the train at a run! We nearly missed it. Poor Joy! Then the fun of finding your car on a moving train with 800 lbs. of baggage :~D Let's just say, we left some unhappy passengers. And had either of us been on our own, we'd probably have been crying. It was such a relief to get to London and find that our Hotel- we made reservations sight, unseen- was absolutely adorable- and right next to the Tube station- with everything- laundromat, restraunts, grocery stores, P.O., internet, etc. right there, in a block or two. Whew! Friday, to Gatwick to pick up Sarah and then the real adventures began :~) It was fun to have friends to be with- talk with- laugh with- not that the people I met along the way weren't nice- but you don't have any history with them. We did normal touristy things- Kensington Palace (they have the Royal Wedding Gowns from Victoria to Elizabeth 2 on display right now) Tea at the Orangery- Highly Reccomended- Hyde Park, Tower of London...shopping... and on Sunday Night- we decided- why go to Stratford when we can see Paris for only a few pounds more? So Joy went on-line and bought plane and tour tickets! Wed. we went to Paris! Our flight was delayed (after all that frantic searching- and paging!) for about two hours. Because of that, we didn't get in to any of the museums because they were closed by the time we arrived :¬( We did get British Airways to put us on a later flight so we could at least finish the bus tour. They were pretty snobby about it- but maybe that was becuase it was France. Caught the bus in to the city to get to the tour, started in front of the Opera House- where Phantom of the Opera is set. I'd have liked to see the inside! Then to the Arch deTriumph....climbed all the way to the top (oh- through the Louis XV square- or rather octagon...where they tore down the statue of the king and placed the Guillotine during the revolution- not that they told you that on the tour...) 250 stairs up...and down. A good view, but I'm not sure it was worth it :¬) My legs were like jelly. Then we ate lunch at a little sidewalk place....it was Italian!!! So much for "when in Rome". But the food was good- it was all we could find that looked decent and affordable on the Champ D'Elyeese (sp?) Then off to the Eifle Tower- bought a couple things- tacky mini tower :¬) Must enjoy being a tourist some time- and Ice Cream- in a double cone. V. cute. Then a few more stops...past the Lourve...and on to Notre Dame...I got off to take a picture- they said they would wait- and got back just as the bus (with Joy and Sarah!!) was pulling away- I couldn't catch it, so I had to wait for the next one to come around...only about 15 min. so I shopped and picked up a few little things- post cards, the beret, etc. And met the girls at the next stop- they were on the bank of the Seine and got to shop there- oh well- I'm glad we met up again! Then back to the Opera (past the Place where Napoleon went to Army school and the church where he is buried) to catch our bus back... did a little more shopping there, but didn't find anything....and then to the airport- where they wouldn't let us on the plane! They said the flight was closed??? Even though we were there an hour ahead of time AND had our names on the reservation list (in her computer) go figure. France. So she finally checked with her manager and guess what- it was okay! What do you know. They let us on- but then never stamped our passports :¬( Of course earlier in the morning JOy and I both realized that we had knives in our purses- and I had scissors- but they both went through undetected- 2x! Sarah was the one pulled out for a bag check! Makes me nervous though, you know? If I can do it without really trying...what else goes through? Finally it was time to go home...did that rather gracefully- EARLY flight- that was the ONLY one out that day, so I spent the night at Heathrow. Ick. Had to since the trains don't run out there that early. :~( But slept most of the way. Was frightened in Geneva by a man who followed me into the ladies room- come on! I could understand if he was Scotch- that would be an acceptable excuse- choosing the door with the skirt- but no- He only spoke German- I think he was trying to tell me to leave- I don't know. I told him, no- this is the LADIES room! Oh well. Hope it served him well. 'Course then I got lost looking for shopping in the airport...and went THROUGH customs! Oops! And out and had to go back through again to get back to my gate! Fortunately didn't miss the flight. Whew! :~) And finally home. First thing I did was eat steak :~) Then the arduous task of unpacking (where'd all this stuff come from!) Catching up on work, orders, etc. and finally! Writing to you all. It was truly a once in a lifetime trip. I think I'm glad :~) Click here for Pictures!! |